Saturday, January 29, 2011

Dan and Hannah Hike Our American Southwest - Grand Canyon North Rim, Arizona


Snowing in late May!  Yes, snow falls in late May in northern Arizona.  Two years ago while hiking at the North Rim in long pants and sweatshirts, Hannah and I were under the threat of snow throughout the afternoon.   After hiking, we drove cautiously north to Kanab, UT in a snowstorm that New Englanders would be proud to call their own.  Today 60 degrees welcomes us to the North Rim on this Memorial Day.  Before we hike we use our cell phones to call our daughter Robyn (veteran of the War in Afghanistan) and my parents (World War II) to thank them for their service to our country. 

The North Rim is out of the way, in a big way.  We drive five hours north on lonely roads from central Arizona by way of Route 89 through the Navajo Reservation, over the Colorado River south of Page, AZ, and through the Kaibab Plateau.  National Geographic meadows and Smithsonian forests open up as we drive south.  Slightly dismayed at the fifteen-minute midday wait at the North Rim gate, we wonder what must the traffic be like in mid-summer?  Finally, we proudly flash our Seniors Pass, available to all those 62 and older.   For ten greenbacks we now get into all National Parks without ever paying another dime.  The deal of a lifetime.

In the early afternoon at the North Rim, we leave behind the heat of the desert and take to the five-mile roundtrip, clearly marked Uncle Jim Trail on the rim of the Canyon.  Through a forest of dappled sunlight the trail meanders gently to a Canyon overlook.  A few hikers pass by this loop trail that is easy on the feet, and the mild temperatures have us drinking less water than we did in the desert.  At this time of year, we see some snow near the trails; due to heavy winter snows the North Rim doesn’t open till mid-May.

Surprisingly, many areas of the forest are burned.  The rangers say the use of controlled burns minimizes major forest fires, which maintains the high plateau ecosystem.  To complete our three hours of hiking we take to the level, easy to negotiate hikes of the Bridal and Transept Trails near the Bright Angel Lodge.  With many views of the canyon, the hikes are leisurely, well marked, and satisfying.  Which brings us to the Fifth Commandment of the Trail - Ask others to take your picture with your camera.  The actual picture is secondary.  It’s the entrée to begin a conversation with another hiker, to find the connection that we so often seem to find.  

Since we waited till just a week before our trip to make reservations at the rim ((http://foreverlodging.com/lodging.cfm?PropertyKey=181), we have no park accommodations and must head north to find motels.  There are few 45 miles away in Jacobs Lake or 75 miles away in Fredonia.  Some 80 miles away, Kanab, UT gives us many choices for motels.  Opting for the quite inexpensive, we choose The Red Rock Country Inn at $49/night with a queen bed, a refrigerator, and microwave.  Kanab has wide streets and a lazy feel, something out of American Graffiti.  We sit by the pool, toast the evening, and watch the cars roll by as the sun sets.  To our right is a patrol car parked by the side of the road to slow down incoming out-of-towners.  Once we examine it more closely, we realize there is a dummy in the front seat.  We smile in admiration. 

North Rim hikes – Very good     

1 comment:

  1. Ahhh...I remember it well. Especially the streets of Kanab. And that "dummy" cruiser. I think we figured it out by the second night. He coulda caught us the first night!!
    Happy Trails to--and with-you, my AT Guy. HannahB

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