Dan and Hannah Hike Our American Southwest - Grand Canyon North Rim, Arizona

Snowing in late May!  Yes, snow falls in late May in northern Arizona.  Two years ago while hiking at the North Rim in long pants and sweatshirts, Hannah and I were under the threat of snow throughout the afternoon.   After hiking, we drove cautiously north to Kanab, UT in a snowstorm that New Englanders would be proud to call their own.  Today 60 degrees welcomes us to the North Rim on this Memorial Day.  Before we hike we use our cell phones to call our daughter Robyn (veteran of the War in Afghanistan) and my parents (World War II) to thank them for their service to our country. 

The North Rim is out of the way, in a big way.  We drive five hours north on lonely roads from central Arizona by way of Route 89 through the Navajo Reservation, over the Colorado River south of Page, AZ, and through the Kaibab Plateau.  National Geographic meadows and Smithsonian forests open up as we drive south.  Slightly dismayed at the fifteen-minute midday wait at the North Rim gate, we wonder what must the traffic be like in mid-summer?  Finally, we proudly flash our Seniors Pass, available to all those 62 and older.   For ten greenbacks we now get into all National Parks without ever paying another dime.  The deal of a lifetime.

In the early afternoon at the North Rim, we leave behind the heat of the desert and take to the five-mile roundtrip, clearly marked Uncle Jim Trail on the rim of the Canyon.  Through a forest of dappled sunlight the trail meanders gently to a Canyon overlook.  A few hikers pass by this loop trail that is easy on the feet, and the mild temperatures have us drinking less water than we did in the desert.  At this time of year, we see some snow near the trails; due to heavy winter snows the North Rim doesn’t open till mid-May.

Surprisingly, many areas of the forest are burned.  The rangers say the use of controlled burns minimizes major forest fires, which maintains the high plateau ecosystem.  To complete our three hours of hiking we take to the level, easy to negotiate hikes of the Bridal and Transept Trails near the Bright Angel Lodge.  With many views of the canyon, the hikes are leisurely, well marked, and satisfying.  Which brings us to the Fifth Commandment of the Trail - Ask others to take your picture with your camera.  The actual picture is secondary.  It’s the entrée to begin a conversation with another hiker, to find the connection that we so often seem to find.  

Since we waited till just a week before our trip to make reservations at the rim ((http://foreverlodging.com/lodging.cfm?PropertyKey=181), we have no park accommodations and must head north to find motels.  There are few 45 miles away in Jacobs Lake or 75 miles away in Fredonia.  Some 80 miles away, Kanab, UT gives us many choices for motels.  Opting for the quite inexpensive, we choose The Red Rock Country Inn at $49/night with a queen bed, a refrigerator, and microwave.  Kanab has wide streets and a lazy feel, something out of American Graffiti.  We sit by the pool, toast the evening, and watch the cars roll by as the sun sets.  To our right is a patrol car parked by the side of the road to slow down incoming out-of-towners.  Once we examine it more closely, we realize there is a dummy in the front seat.  We smile in admiration. 

North Rim hikes – Very good     

Dan and Hannah Hike Our American Southwest - Prescott, Arizona

There is historic Prescott and then there is Prescott Valley, which has grown in just over thirty years from 1500 residents to its current 38,000.  Coming from I-17 south of Flagstaff, Hannah and I are stunned by the scope of Prescott Valley (PV), which gives us American convenience at our fingertips - Costco, Pet Smart, Home Depot, Cracker Barrel, and Ace Hardware - here in the middle of this mile high desert.  The Chamber of Commerce trumpets that PV is one of the fastest growing non-metropolitan towns in America.  And that’s a good thing?  PV does provide an escape from the heat, smog, and congestion of Phoenix, some 100 miles to the south.  We land at the Hampton Inn and Suites (www.prescottvalleysuites.hamptoninn.com) to escape the Arizona heat and traffic.  The buffet of biscuits, fruit, cold cereal, and juices are easily transported poolside where a good friend waits, the USA Today.

Heading East on route 69 we do arrive in Prescott.  A morning walk takes us through the wide streets, the river walkway, and to petite Prescott College (http://www.prescott.edu).  Tired of large classes and the impersonal touch of large universities?  Prescott College with its motto – for the liberal arts, the environment, and social justice.  What refugee of the Sixties wouldn’t want a grandchild to consider such a college?

The Lynx Lake Recreation Area (http://www.arizona-leisure.com/lynx-lake.html) is just a few miles from our motel, just off route 69.  Useful and brightly colored maps of various hikes are hospitably available at the Walker Road parking area.  Though we start in the early afternoon, it’s 80 degrees.  Appreciating the occasional ponderosa pine to shade our sun-drenched heads, arms, and legs, we choose hike 305, a fourteen mile round trip, nine of which we hike to keep to our target of three hours of hiking.  Gentle inclines at 5000 feet make this an enjoyable hike with a recreational feel.  Bald eagles nest near other Lynx Lake trails, which are closed from December though June.  Here’s the Fourth Commandment of the Trail - Pick up two maps at the trailhead so you can give one away.  Meeting two Girl Scout leaders unsure of the correct trail, we are reminded how nice it would have been to give them a map to navigate rather than just explain the way to go.

Walking mostly single file we hike under the alligator juniper (the bark does look like alligator hide!) and ponderosa pine, which shades us maybe 30% of the time.  Well-marked trails lead to Lynx Lake where families have come for this weekend Sunday for relief from the penetrating sun.  We are confident that we are on the right trail since we hear the reassuring muffled sounds of distant vehicles.  Once back at the Hampton Suites, we shower and return to the pool to toast the evening with a fine Shiraz, that yes is readily available in Prescott Valley.  However few, PV does have its merits.  Lynx Lake Hike – Very Good

As always when hiking, know thyself, thy limits, and the conditions.  Be prepared.

Dan and Hannah take you to Sedona, Arizona

Is there a prettier name for a town than Sedona?  I think not.  As Arizona residents at the time of the birth of our first daughter Molly, my wife Hannah and I never considered Sedona for her first name.  Did we drop the ball?  Driving to Sedona today, I think we might have.   Like Montana and Dakota, Sedona suggest a strong individual, an unbridled spirit, the West personified.  Who wouldn’t want such a daughter?   Informed later of our regrets, Molly said thank you, thank you for not naming me Sedona.  Another bit of unintended karma along our parenting trail.

Through the heavily forested Oak Creek Canyon, we meander down two lane route 89A to Sedona, just an hour’s drive from Flagstaff.  Passing two of the more popular shorter hikes in the area, one at the West Fork Oak Creek Trail (http://www. dreamsedona.com/ hiking-oak-creek-trail.html) and the other at Slide Rock State Park (http://azstateparks. com/ parks/SLRO/), we take the rotary just south of town heading down Showalter Road to the parking area for the Mund’s Wagon hike.  Paying five dollars by credit card to park, we feel a small bit of pride in supporting Arizona’s state parks.

Beginning late morning, we head out under blue skies with very little shade.  Following brilliant red sandstone cairns (stacked rocks, in this instance encased in wire mesh cylinders), our trail is nicely marked and easy to follow.  A well-marked trail with other hikers allows me to relax and enjoy myself, unconcerned about getting lost.  Wondering if one is on the trail or not can ruin the best of hikes.

After talking with a returning, agreeable twenty-something hiker, we politely decline his offer of multi-grain energy bars.  It doesn’t take us ten seconds to realize that we just blew it in a big way by breaking the Third Commandment of the Trail – Accept offers of food and water appreciatively.   We hikers are one, inseparable.   We need to do all we can to support and honor each other.

Crossing the dry riverbed repeatedly, we find the modest elevation gain easy to handle.  Ninety minutes later we arrive at a beautiful outcropping at Merry-Go-Round Rock with panoramic views of Bear Wallow Canyon River Valley.  In stones, Will you marry me? greet us from a Romeo to his Juliet or perhaps a Juliet to her Romeo or even a Thelma to her Louise or… Ah, the mysteries of the trail.  Heading back to the trailhead, we find pools of cool water to soothe our boot weary feet.  Resting on a rock, I think of the wanderlust legacy bestowed on me by my own Mom and Dad.  Forty-five years ago, they took their three East Coast kids West in a woody station wagon, where I learned that the wilderness world beyond New Jersey was not such a dangerous place and helped me develop an adventurous spirit.

Once back at the trailhead three hours later with the temperature in the low 90s, we abandon any idea of eating at the open-air picnic tables for it must have been 120 degrees in the sun.  Heading home, we find shaded areas along on Oak Creek Canyon to lunch and cool our jets.  Back in Flagstaff, we relax with an evening Cabernet.   Mund’s Wagon Trail – Very good.                 

As always when hiking, know thyself, thy limits, and the conditions.  Be prepared.

Grand Canyon South Rim, Arizona

Bright Angel Trail – 1     Dan - 0

That score has been burned into my mind for the last two years.  Not wanting to miss our beloved breakfast of piping hot biscuits, scrambled eggs, and fresh brewed coffee and reading the USA Today, Hannah and I did not arrive to hike the Bright Angel Trail of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon that day two years ago until 10A.  On that day after two hours of hiking into the canyon we began our ascent from Indian Gardens.  Mistakenly I had the idea that if I drank enough water, I’d be fine.  I wasn’t fine.  Dizzy and light-headed, I soon learned from a canyon volunteer (http://www.gcvolunteers.org/) that I was suffering from hyponatremia – too little salt in my system.  Indeed, I had broken the Second Commandment of the Trail – Eat salty snacks with water, Dan.  With Hannah’s help I wobbled to the top, ate peanuts and gorp ((http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trail_mix), and before long was reasonably coherent, but defeated and looking to settle the score.  It’s a guy thing I’m afraid.

Today, driving the 78 miles north from Flagstaff on excellent two lane roads at 540A, we encounter very little traffic and are able to park on the road in front of the Bright Angel Lodge.  Staying at the South Rim takes planning and forethought as the rooms fill up months ahead of time (http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/).

Ready a good two plus hours earlier than two years ago, we descend the Bright Angel Trail at 7000 feet with water bottles, Salty Cajun Trail Mix, and liberally-applied sunscreen to begin the nine mile round trip to Indian Gardens at 4000 feet.  Bracing our knees with each descending step, we enjoy the clearly marked rocky trail, though only wide enough for one, with its panoramic views without a cloud in the sky.  After having lived in Arizona for ten years, we know this is a typical desert day.  Stepping aside against the canyon wall and carefully avoiding the prickly pear cactus when the mule trains pass, we smile and wonder why everyone climbing out looks so beleaguered.  We “good morning” everyone.  Unfortunately our desire to verbally engage goes for naught.  It seems three quarters of all hikers are European, and most of those German, who are not confident in their English or just find our upbeat manner a little too annoying. 

Within two hours, we are at Indian Gardens and snacking on peanut butter and crackers as well as gorp under the shade of covered picnic tables with water available at the nearby fountain  (http://www.grand.canyon.national-park.com/hike.htm).   The thermometer in the shade by the mule hitching posts is 78F.  Opposite is another thermometer in the sun bragging of its 110F.  Our ascent is hot and shadeless and we are not so chatty.  On steeper inclines our breathing gets heavier. Being the stronger hiker, Hannah sets the pace where my focus is clear.  Get to the rim, just get to the rim, Danny Boy.  Nasty smelling mule urine distracts me, but only slightly.   There is water at the three-mile hut and at another hut within a mile and a half of the rim to supplement our gorp.   Approaching the top I have nothing left to give.  Plodding and surviving accurately capture my performance.  Yet, let’s update the score.

Bright Angel Trail – 2 (Very good and still champion)     Dan – 1

As always when hiking, be ye olde or be ye younge, know thyself, thy limits, and the conditions.  Be prepared, especially when hiking in the desert.

Dan and Hannah Hike Our American Southwest - Flagstaff, Arizona

Flying into Las Vegas (http://www.expedia.com), Hannah and I are no lovers of the city of lights.  In fact, we think a successful time in Las Vegas is the one with the quickest exit.   Four hours away, Flagstaff, Arizona at 6900 feet is our destination.  (http://www.flagstaffchamber.com).  The terrain from Vegas is desolate beyond belief.   It’s brown on brown with brown rock, brown sand, and brown as far as the eye can see.  Our recommendation for staying in Flagstaff is the Hotel Aspen Inn-Suites (http://www.hotelaspenflagstaff.com).  In the morning, their breakfast consists of biscuits (and gravy for Hannah), eggs, home fries, hot coffee, cold cereal, and orange juice.  The USA Today is there at 6:30A.  Life is good.

Our morning walk is to the campus of Northern Arizona University at 34 degrees in late May.  Walking along old Route 66, we soon make the left into the 1950s funky downtown neighborhood that is home to college students.  Five houses to an acre, stuffed furniture on front porches, one story domiciles, and parking on the street.  Before the town wakes up, we have the lawns and quiet streets of the campus to ourselves.  It is the kind of place, when on vacation, you think, Wouldn’t this be a great place to move to for a year?  The elixir of being on vacation, freedom with no responsibility, no set schedule, and no lessons to plan nor papers to grade, gets us dreaming.  Fact is, it gets Dan dreaming.  Hannah is just fine in Maine.

Within two miles of our motel is Flagstaff’s own Urban Trail system including Buffalo Park with a level two-mile trail for walkers, joggers, or bicyclists.  Connected to that park is the Coconino National Forest (CNF) and one section of the 800+ miles of the newly constituted Arizona Trail (http://www.aztrail.org) through ponderosa pines with gentle elevation changes.  A passing unicyclist suggests the gently rolling nature of the trail.

In the CNF, the 7000-8000 feet of elevation is no hindrance to a good pace as the meandering trail, often wide enough for two, heads north.  Shade is plentiful, but sunny breaks abound under totally blue skies to lift the spirits and not dehydrate the body on these clearly marked trails.  If you’ve a grandson or granddaughter looking for a love in an outdoorsy body, Flagstaff is your place.  Upbeat and healthy girls and boys careen on the trails in mountain bikes.  Ninety minutes into the hike, we remove our hiking boots and socks to refresh our feet for the return trip to Buffalo Park.  In short order, we are back in time for an afternoon nap (Dan) or laying in the sun (Hannah).  The Inn Suites has a free happy hour every day.  A couple beers from a keg or some red or white wine, albeit from a box, go down smoothly.   Buffalo Park/Arizona Trail in CNF Hike rating – Very good.

The first Commandment of the Trail – Get a cool looking hat.  If in need of a hiking hat, head to Peace Surplus (http://www.peacesurplus.com) in downtown Flagstaff.  Dan’s recommendation is the award winning Seattle Sombrero (http://www.nextag.com/seattle-sombrero/search-html).  (It is no kin to Seinfeld’s Elaine Benes’ Urban Sombrero.)  The flaps of the floppy hat Velcro to the side for an Australian cool vibe that Dan is known for. 

As always when hiking, know thyself, thy limits, and the conditions.  Be prepared.